The Cherry inlays were done with a router, 1/8″ router bit, template guide and a plywood pattern.
Masking tape was used on the table top and all the references were marked on the tape for easy viewing. The start and stop positions were marked on the tape and a pencil mark on the router base was used as a reference point. After the first slot was cut, 3/32″ deep, the pattern was moved to the next position using the marks for alignment. Figure the length of the inlay and add about 6″. The Cherry was cut 1/16″ over size and then sanded to the final deminsion (1/8″ x 1/8″) with a drum sander. One end of the inlay was rounded with a file to fit the end of the groove. After all groves were cleaned of saw dust, then glue was brushed into the groove. The inlay is then fitted into the groove starting with the rounded end and working along the length, using a block of wood and mallet to insure that it is firmly seated. About 6″ from the opposite end, stop and trim the inlay to fit, rounding the end with a file and then finish pressing it into the groove. After the glue has set the inlay can be sanded flush.
Keith
#1 by Dennis Weber at December 8th, 2009
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Keith,
Looks easy enough, but I am sure that it has a few problems that come along with it. Like how do you make sure that the inlay is the exact same size as the grove. And do you leave your inlay a little thicker or higher then your groove so you can sand it flat? Just wondering.
#2 by TBDKeith at December 9th, 2009
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Hi Dennis,
The Cherry was ripped 1/16″ over size and then sanded to the final dimension (1/8″ x 1/8″) with a drum sander. This left the inlay standing 1/32″ proud when installed and then sanded flush. The groove is 1/8″ wide. I used a drum sander and a micrometer to ensure a good fit. The bottom corners of the inlays were lightly sanded (tapered) so the inlay would slip into the groove without breaking.
Keith